Saturday, 4 August 2012

Something to get your teeth into!

Something to get your teeth into!


I don't know why I woke when I did this morning. The first thing I noticed was that the sky was not that startling, all embracing blue. The second thing I noticed was that it wasn't that oppressive heat, although I was already drenched in sweat. I looked at the alarm clock beside the bed and was shock to see that it said 9.40am. I'd set the alarm for 8am and I didn't remember switching it off, although I often do so in a dreamlike state that does not penetrate my consciousness. I picked up the clock and sure enough the alarm button was still raised - how then could it have passed the appointed hour and not gone off? It is only a cheap mechanical clock, but far more effective in this place of almost daily electrical cuts.

'Come on Waldo.' I patted him on the back. 'Petros is coming at eleven and it is ten to ten already.'

I had intended to bake some cakes and I needed to arrange chairs on the back patio, in the shade of the bougainvillea, and the table would probably need a wipe over. I got out of bed, washed and started to dress. I was just in the middle of putting my trousers on when Waldo surfaced.

'You are early this morning, it's only a quarter past seven!' He turned over as if to go back to sleep. I couldn't be bothered to go back to bed. I was dressed. And I now knew that the alarm clock needed a new battery so, I would probably oversleep. I would get up anyway and enjoy the coolness of the early morning.

As I sat enjoying a glass of ice cold water I remembered why I used to get up at six most mornings. It really is such a beautiful part of the day. It is still warm enough for the cicadas to start screaming at each other - apparently they don't start until the temperature exceeds 28'C.  For an hour the sun beams into the window where I usually sit and work, then it moves behind the house, leaving the kitchen and lounge side in shade. The window blinds enable me to work and I make a resolution to restart my early morning habit.

Waldo appears with half a face looking like a chipmunk. Immediately I assume that something crawled over his face in the night, became angry when it got tangled in his beard and in revenge has stung him. But there does not appear to be any entry point for fangs, stinging tails or pincers. His cheek is swollen with a hard central red lump. I pack him off to the chemists to get some antibiotics. And to remember to buy some new batteries for my alarm clock!

In the meantime I busy myself baking some date and orange cupcakes, a lemon iced coffee and walnut cake, and making a large pitcher of iced tea. I cannot help but reflect on my situation last year when I awoke with a swollen cheek. I knew that it was an abscess under a tooth towards the back of my jaw. We went to the local hospital to see the dentist. After examination he decided that he would have to drill into the tooth and drain the abscess. To my utter horror he proceeded to drill, without any anaesthetic! When I queried this he declared that the hospital could not afford it. By this time he was well into the tooth and so I let him finish the job. He drilled the centre of the tooth out and told me to go to the chemist to get some antibiotics and the come back in 5 days. He did not pack the tooth with any temporary dressing, it was just left with nerves open to the air!

I was rather concerned that I would get food in the open tooth. I did not want to create any further opportunity for infection to grow. I telephoned my dentist in Cardiff who told me that he thought it should be left open, but that I should have it checked every second day, and that he would probably have removed the nerves rather than leave them jangling. We looked in the local book of telephone contacts for businesses and professional people and found the telephone number of a private dentist and made an appointment for seven o'clock that evening. I went to see Iannis the dentists every second evening and he put antiseptic pads to clean out the abscess. He gave me more antibiotics and after 10 days he declared that the tooth was ready to be filled. He completed the task and charge me just 40 Euros which included the filling materials and the 6 appointments that I had had with him.

Two days later my face was swollen and the abscess was pulsating again. As I have an allergy which means that I cannot take any painkillers, all this pain is really inconvenient.  I use self-hypnosis which gets me through most of it, but it does sap my energy on times. we went through the whole process again; having the tooth drilled, antibiotics, cleaning the tooth. back and forth to Livadi we went every second evening. It was nearing the time when we would be returning to Cardiff and I wanted it sorted by then. Iannis decided that he would put a temporary filling in and then if the abscess did not recur during the month in Cardiff, he would fill the tooth properly when I came back to Kythera. Everything went well; I was out of pain and there was no sign of the abscess recurring. Waldo and I returned to Cardiff and after a month came back to the sunshine. There was no rush and so after about 10 days on the island we made an appointment with Iannis who took out the temporary filling and replaced it with a proper one. No charge, I'd already paid for it to be done then had all the trouble.

None of us could believe it but just two days later, my face became swollen and very painful. That damn abscess had returned. This time Iannis declared that the tooth would have to come out. This time he gave me a shot of anaesthetic and brought out a huge pair of pincers that looked more suited to Waldo's tool box than a dentist's piece of equipment. Iannis clasped the pincers around my tooth and told me to keep my head still. Flexing his muscles he started to twist and pull. I have very deep roots to my teeth, particularly the back ones. I knew he had a job on his hands that needed his strength and my patience. I knew too that there was precious little of the tooth to hold onto and that if it started to break up we would be in trouble. It would need an operation to get the roots out. Iannis continued to pull and twist and I felt some movement. Whether I moved my head or did something to alert him to the fact that something was happening or whether he felt it himself, I don't know. But, he changed his stance slightly and, as if trying to distract me, started shouting in a heavy accented voice 'God save the Queen. God save the Queen.'

I was so shocked, it took my mind off the tooth for a moment and then, as I rolled my eyes to look at him, he changed his tune: 'God Save the Queen. And God bless the Prince of Wales'. At which point the tooth came clean out. He cleaned me up and sprayed antiseptic into the yawning bloody gap.

Waldo then asked Iannis how much we owed him and were told, 'Tepota - nothing'. Iannis declared that he had done nothing, he had not been able to save the tooth and so there was nothing to pay. I made up my mind there and then not to struggle to find a NHS dentist, my dentist of long standing had retired just weeks before and so I decided from then on all my dental work would be done on Kythera.

Sure enough a few months later a crown fell off one of my teeth. We went back to Iannis who tried on four occasions to stick it back on. All to no avail. Despite all his time and glue used he would not let me pay anything. 'What I have done, nothing. You don't have a good tooth so you don't pay.' Eventually he declared that I would have to have a new crown made and did all the necessary mouldings of my mouth. If I had porcelain it would cost 120 Euros but if I had plastic, which looks the same and is as strong, it would be 100 Euros. As it was not a tooth on view, I declared that I would have plastic. At this point Iannis told me that plastic was no good and that I should have porcelain; 'You have porcelain, is better. I only charge you 100 Euros.' So the deal was done and within two weeks I was back in the dentist's chair having the new crown fitted.

The following evening, when out in a taverna, the new crown fell out! So it was down to Livadi to see Iannis again. he was mortified, embarrassed and a little angry. He'd given me the previous moulding of my bottom row of teeth to use as an ashtray. Fortunately I don't smoke and I'd had the foresight to take it back with me. He checked it out again and said that this time he would send the impression away with my current plate and that it would be back in a week - the times of the ferries make it impossible to be any less. The following week I had a new crown fitted and there it sits to this day. The cost of the new crown - 'tipota'.

The sound of our car brings me out of my thoughts. Waldo comes in brandishing antibiotic cream and tablets. It is the chemist's opinion that it is a bite of some sort which has turned poisonous. Waldo's chipmunk cheek looks bigger than ever. He just needs to give the antibiotics time to work.

Petros turns up within minutes of Waldo's return. He is laden with fresh melons just picked from his vegetable field. He gives me a huge watermelon, a very large standard yellow-skinned melon and a type of water melon that looks like a massive  18 inch long 12 inch wide courgette, but which is apparently a local species of water melon. These are all being grown totally organically from seeds from his grandmother's garden. Petros has two fields where he is experimenting with organic, minimal water gardening. One field is full of melons, tomatoes, courgettes, pumpkins, squash, aubergines, and the local horta and vlita (the former a cross between dandelion leaves and spinach and the latter a sort of spindly broccoli). The other field contains all manner of herbs: rosemary, thyme, basil, mint, dill, and the ubiquitous oregano. We were supposed to be meeting to chat about Petros' solar power engineering business, but soon the talk of sustainability takes over. This leads back to herbs and vegetables and how to preserve then. He is fascinated and wants me to look out some old recipes. I think I'm going to be busy when more of Petros' crops are ready to pick. In the meantime I'm off to make some melon and ginger preserve.

Friday, 3 August 2012

From green lizards to green peas

From green lizards to green peas


Kythera is like the little girl with the curl; 'when she's good she's very, very good and when she's bad, she's horrid'. It is constantly challenging, extremely loving and can send you from the heights of love and peace to the depths of despair and frustration - often all emotions pass through within an hour or so. Today has been one of those days.

A few days ago we received our annual bill for our NOVA TV subscription. I read this to the best of my ability and it appears that it is an actual bill rather than a receipt; which is a bit of a surprise as we thought we had set it up as an automatic annual payment. Last year when we spoke to a person from NOVA, they spoke excellent English, were extremely helpful and dealt with us incredibly efficiently. But something has changed since then. Waldo has tried on three occasion to speak to someone from NOVA on the telephone. Each time has been the same; the telephone rings for about 15 -20 minutes before it is answered, the person says that she will put him through to the correct office, the telephone rings for a further 30 - 40 minutes and then he is cut off! A really efficient system!

Greece is a cash economy, cheque books are not allocated to bank accounts and credit, debit or charge cards are virtually unknown outside of Athens. Here on Kythera only two shops will accept them; they will try anything for you not to use them and if you insist they then charge a fairly hefty usage charge. So the electricity bills, and other utilities can be paid through the post office; although almost all locals prefer to pay in cash. If we order goods to be delivered then we pay by paying the courier driver. Although at the beginning of the year Waldo wanted a new sound system to attach to our TV. After searching the Internet and contacting the manufacturers he was given the name of the importer in Athens. He contacted them and was informed that the product was not in stock but that they would get it in a week. Amazingly they did so and e-mailed Waldo of the fact. He then telephoned them to give details of our address and which courier company to use.

'Oh, but we cannot sell it to you.' the woman exclaimed 'We are a wholesale company.'
Waldo was too shocked to ask why she had not told him this beforehand. After some discussion he was given the name and contact details of one of their retailers. Telling the woman not to sell the goods to anyone else, he himself had to contact the retailer to ask them to order the goods from the wholesaler and ask them to send them to us. A long and involved series of telephone calls ensued which resulted in the fact that the goods had to be dispatched from the wholesaler to the retailer who would then courier them to us. All of this was arranged and then Waldo asked if he could pay by credit card (we only bring a limited amount of cash over here for our daily needs and in that we play the 'exchange rate' game to our advantage). The goods were delivered well before arrangements to pay were settled. It ended up that using his credit card, Waldo had to pay the shop next door to the retailers and then they would sort it out between themselves! How they reconcile their accounts is a mystery even the Greek tax man doesn't know; just like any other business here.

When in the post office I noticed lots of people paying bills and so I asked the post mistress if we could pay our NOVA bill with her. No, we had to see George, the Nova engineer. When we returned from our shopping expedition, we decided to stop at Mitsos' beachfront bar for drinks and ice-cream. We whiled away a few pleasant hours enjoying the view and chatting with Goran our neighbouring olive farmer who has his granddaughter and her friend staying with them. Poor Goran's hair has already turned from Viking red to Swedish blond in the sun; at the end of the fortnight it will be white from the responsibility of looking after two beautiful Swedish teenagers. Other friends, most with the grandchildren passed by and chatted and eventually, as we knew would happen, 'George NOVA' came within our sights.
'No, not me. Me only engineer.' he declared. 'You go Livadi. You go Germanos and pay.'

This morning, we sat on the patio enjoying breakfast: freshly squeezed orange juice, muesli with a fresh peach smothered in local yogurt and a cup of local 'mountain tea' (a type of dried wild sage which I pick and dry myself and infuse with pieces of fresh root ginger - a great morning starter). As usual, this is our time to chat, decide what we are going to during the day, together and/or individually. As we were chatting I heard splashing in the pool. I had already said 'good morning' to Freddy who was sitting under the shade of a rock on the steps of the pool - his morning location. I jumped up and looked; Freddy hadn't moved but instead of looking at me and rolling his froggy-eyes as he normally does, he was transfixed on a spot on the opposite side of the pool. I followed his gaze and sure enough, there on the bottom curve of the metal steps into the deep end of the pool, clinging on was a green lizard. he was a good 2 metres away from the base of the lizard ladder. I didn't want him to drown and it seemed quite a distance for him to swim back. Waldo reached for the net that he uses to clear leaves off the surface of the pool, and for saving lizards in distress. He put the net in front of the lizard expecting him to move onto it, but he was an agile young adult and leapt right over the net. With Waldo keeping the net behind him he did a wonderfully speedy sort of dog paddle right back to the base of the lizard ladder - he knew exactly where he was going. Once his feet were on the ladder he stayed there a while to get his breath back. He then glanced up at Waldo and you couldn't help but feel that he was saying 'thank you', he seemed to sense that Waldo was not a threat to him. Once rested the lizard ran up the ladder at full speed, jumped off the wall and scurried into the shade of the oleander bushes where he lives with the rest of his family. Fred watched it all with interest.

Having done our good deed for the day, we decided to go to Livadi. Our shopping list was not too onerous; leave a note for Petros in the village,  hopefully collect some newly ordered DVDs from Potamos post office, fill up with petrol, go to Livadi to pay our NOVA bill, take Waldo's glasses to the optician for a minor repair and then treat ourselves to a leisurely lunch out. Next to Petros' name in our contacts book I have written 'computer wizard', which he is. Petros is an amazing engineer who has set up a solar powered system for our friend Goran - it brings water up the mountain, sufficient for all his needs. It is the first such system in Greece and one of just 5 in the world. Petros really is a magician with electronics, he studied robotics for his doctoral thesis. Despite all of this and his access to all of the latest telephones, i-pads, computer programmes and such, he is very difficult to get hold of.  We keep in our car what we call the 'We want Petros kit'; a notepad, pen and roll of sticky tape. When we need Petros then we simply drive to his house at the bottom of our mountain and stick a note to his front door. E-mails, telephone messages all fail, but our system is guaranteed to have Petros knocking at our door.

The post office did not have much for me, but then Tuesday's are usually the big bounty days.  Just after we call for petrol we pass the office of the builder's merchant, the handsome Michaelis who promised that tomorrow, he will send the man with the grader to do our road. We decide to pull in and see whether the machine is back from Antikythera. We look around the yard to no avail and so decide to go up to the office. Michaelis is not there, but his brother George is sitting down. As soon as we appear he turns to the woman in the office and asks her about 'Koksma's road'. Gosh, we are known all over the island now as the people from Koksma's road. Our hopes lift, but are soon dashed as he says he can only do anything if the mayor says so. After a few minutes of discussion, telling him that the mayor has, like the man from Delmonte, 'said YES', on numerous occasions, I start to get mildly annoyed as he tells me he knows nothing of this. I start to raise my voice in Greek fashion, and thankfully the words come to me. I challenge him, that if he knows nothing about it, how come he mentioned Koksma's road as soon as he saw us? Where was the machine? After some minutes of quite heated discussion we know that the machine will not come tomorrow as promised - but we do now have a meeting with Michaelis and the mayor at 1 o'clock on Monday. Watch this space!

Our journey through the island is as beautiful as ever. The wildness of the scenery is spectacular and whichever way we look, the blue, blue sea is the backdrop, often it is impossible to see where the sea ends and the sky begins. The perfume of the drying wild herbs wafts through the car and all is well with the world.

We park the car in Livadi and walk to the Germanos shop; paperwork and credit card at the ready.
'No, not us. You cannot pay here.' the man at the counter tells us. 'Germanos used to deal with NOVA, but we finished 4 years ago.'
So much for George NOVA's updated knowledge. We explain the situation to the man and he suggests that we should pay either in the post office or through our bank! There is a new electrical shop in Livadi and we decide to take a look and ask them if they can help. They have some very nice things in the shop and we order two new lights for over our bed. As for NOVA payment; yes you've guessed it - we should go to Germanos up the road! When we explain that we have just come from there a very helpful young man makes a telephone call and then writes down a name and telephone number. In triumph he tells us that he has found out what we should do, this is the man to speak to; who's name and telephone number does he give us? - George NOVA!

We walk back down the road to the opticians. Just as we come in sight of the shop we see that in the space of time we have been chasing the elusive NOVA contact, the shop has closed. There is a 4x4 just starting up nearly, and Waldo asks if the optician is near. It turns out that the driver is the optician. He is just off with his family to the beach. If we come back at 7pm they will deal with it. I explain that we live at the other end of the island and so can we leave the glasses with him and collect them next week? Waldo has a store of glasses which he looses and finds in rotation, so he won't miss one pair. The woman jumps out of the vehicle and looks at the glasses and then declares that she will fix them. She opens up the shop, turns on the electricity, unlocks the cupboards and eventually finds the right size screw to fix the glasses. It is a fiddly job but she does it. When I ask how much, she looks at me in astonishment. No, it is nothing. After all the trouble she has taken, delayed the trip to the beach and left husband and children in a hot car in the sun, we are astonished. Once locked up and on her way back to the car it is the woman's turn to be astonished as Waldo runs in front of her and opens the back door of the car. He thrusts a few Euros into the little girl's hand and shouts 'Pagato' - ice-cream. Smiles and thanks all round - everybody is happy and with a warm feeling.

We walk back down the street and meet the man with the parrot. He causes consternation with some of our visitors, especial after a good lunch, as he literally walks around with a green parrot on his shoulder. The man is a great character (I guess you would have to be if you walk around with a parrot on your shoulder every day!), but the parrot is none too friendly, not like his brother who resides in one of our favourite beach side tavernas in Platea Ammos on the north of the island. It is a regular haunt for us, particularly for Sunday lunch where we simply order whatever fish he has and a salad. He only sells freshly caught fish and so it is the catch of the day. It maybe one, two or three bigger fish, it maybe a selection of shrimp, squid, muscles, sardines, whatever the sea has given up hours before.

Now we reach Pierro's; an excellent restaurant of long standing. Pierros is one of the best restaurants on the island; the fava (fava beans crushed with lemon juice and onion) is the best in the world, served with freshly sliced raw onion and half a lemon. Pierro's is of the Greek tradition whereby you go into the kitchen, see what is cooking and select what you want. Today he has roast pork, roast chicken, stuffed cabbage leaves in an egg and lemon sauce, moussaka, pastitsada (minced beef mixed with tomatoes layed between pasta and covered with bechemal sauce), braised beef with onions, and a selection of vegetables; courgettes, horta, peas, cauliflower. We both choose roast pork and decide to add a Greek salad and peas to the meal. We ask for a jug of water, two freshly squeezed orange juices and a soda water.  The meal comes and is delightful. It is always a delight when I realise that Greek cooking tradition will never allow plain vegetables to be served. Instead of a plate of peas we get a tasty dish of peas mixed in with oil, sweated onion, a little tomato, a few pieces of chopped cooked carrot and a potato cut into tiny chunks.  Pierros brings us a jug of his Cretan wine - 'from me'. We chat and laugh as we recount our morning. We try to decide upon plans of campaign to both pay the NOVA bill and get the road sorted. It looks as though a trip to Potamos is on the cards for Monday.

There are just 14 adults and 4 well behaved children in the restaurant but the noise is deafening; everyone is eating, talking, and laughing. It never fails to amaze us how much Greek people eat and how quickly they do so. A party of three generations of a family sitting on the next table to ours, having arrived after us, have tables groaning with food; 2 x tzatziki, 2 x roast cheese, fava, a huge plate of boiled vegetables, 3 x crushed aubergine salads, 2 x Greek salad, 2 x plates of chips. Then to our amazement come the plates of main courses, each plate piled high with accompanying chips. We are still chomping our way through our main courses and they then move on to devour two huge plates piled high with assorted melon. Then the puddings of fresh yogurt sprinkled with crushed nuts and layered with local honey end the eating spree.

Eating, drinking, chatting and being silent together have taken just over three hours. How privileged we are to be able to spend such time together, without any pressure. I no longer wear a watch and Pierro certainly would not cough surreptitiously to suggest that lunch-time is over. In fact people are still arriving.

We drive back, still admiring the view. As soon as we get back, Petros telephones - he saw us driving up the mountain. Exhausted by our excursion we go to sleep for a few hours. Then it will be the Olympics, news and maybe a DVD. As for tomorrow, well Petros is coming up for coffee around 11am and then we will see what happens.



Thursday, 2 August 2012

Keep calm and carry on!

Keep Calm and carry on!


It is not enough to have to cope with the constant heat, but we seem to be at odds with everything we have tried to do this week. I groan when I wake each morning and hear the cicadas chorus and realise that it is going to be yet another hot day. This morning it was 36' by 10am and now it is in the mid-40's. It is one thing to be physically hot and bothered, but add to that a mental state of hot and bothered and it is then we realise that the state of being frustrated can only be fully experienced when in Greece.

We try to book our British Airways flights between London, Heathrow and Athens as soon as possible. This way we can take advantage of the cheapest flights. Because Olympic Airlines have a habit of running forward their existing schedule for 11 months, despite knowing that it will change between summer and winter timetables, we leave their bookings until later. We have long since given up trying to second guess what they are going to do. This trip we took a gamble that the two Olympic flights on a Wednesday from Athens to the island, would still be operating throughout the summer. Hence by booking the 6.30am flight out of Heathrow and the 19.00 flight out of Athens we felt confident that we would be able to come through both trips in a day. This system worked well and we came out last month in just that way.

Now we are due to return to the UK in late August and come back to the island some 3 weeks later. Again I have booked out UK to Greece legs of the journeys with British Airways without problems. For some reason that I now cannot remember I only booked one-way tickets out to Kythera. Two days ago I went to the Olympic Airlines website to book our flight to Athens at the end of the month and returning a few weeks later; what do I find but the flights are fully booked. The earliest available tickets are some 10 days prior to the date we wish to fly.  This seems contrary to the reports in the newspapers about internal flight sales being 30% down on the normal summer booking. This is despite the fact that taverna owners, shop keepers, hoteliers are all telling the same story of reduced number of tourists! Something doesn't add up.

As usual, with our travel arrangements, I revert to 'Plan B'. Thankfully it is quite safe to leave our car in Glyfada, and catch the bus to the airport. And, we will only be away for a short time. Normally when going by car we would take a leisurely trip and visit some of our favourite haunts in the Peloponnese: Sparta, Mistras, Kaifus Thermal Baths, Naphplion to name a few. But in August there is no point in travelling to these places and paying high season rates in hotels. Also, we need to be back quickly as Waldo's son, son's partner, partner's sister and sister's husband are arriving a few days after we get back and we need to get the house ready for them. So we decided to just spend just one night on the way back as we will have plenty of time to travel from Athens airport to stay in Sparta. The following day we could take a leisurely drive to Githion, have a pleasant lunch on the quay side and take advantage of the cheaper fares of the subsidised ferry from Githion to Kythera in the afternoon. This journey takes about 3 hours, but does cut out some twisting minor roads to come down the Cape Maleas peninsular.

We could not take this ferry to Githion on our outward journey as it's schedule does not fit in with our outward flight from Athens. But this doesn't matter; the 'little' ferry from Kythera to Neapoli makes the two hour return journey 2, 3, 4, sometimes 5 times a day in the summer. This  ferry, although a much shorter distance, is 50% more expensive than the other ferry, because it is not subsidised.  And it adds about 2 hours driving each way to the journey. Tickets cannot be booked via the Internet and so today, when we were in Potamos and decided to call in to the travel agency and book our tickets. By catching the early morning ferry we could easily catch our evening flight from Athens. No additional cost of overnight hotels and meals. But, no, nothing is as simple as that. For some reason best known to someone, the schedule is now such that there is only one ferry trip from Kythera to Neapoli on the day we want to travel - and it is far too late for us to make our flight connection! So we have yet another overnight stay to pay for.

I think that we have travelled between Athens and Kythera in every way possible. On a few rare occasions we have come straight through in one day without hassle. Mostly it means overnight stays in Glyfada and the No. 96 Airport to Piraeus bus; a great service which runs about every 20 minutes 24 hours a day. But all buses are driven by wannabe-racing-drivers, there is usually standing room only, and trying to hang on, keep suitcases from sliding around and keep an eye on wallets, purses and handbags makes for a stressful hour. We have flown from Athens to Kythera only to turn back when the pilot finds that he cannot see the airport because of a cloud bank; it is what is known as a visual landing airport, which presumably means that the RADAR is either non-existent or not up to standard. We have come on the ferry from Athens; nice on the first time, but pretty boring after that as there is nothing to see except sea and there are no facilities worth mentioning. If we could idle our time over a nice meal it would be something. I have come by bus to Sparta - a six hour journey. Then onwards by bus to Neapoli - a difficult 5 hours journey where people seem to be taken to their front door's or dropped off at an entrance to a field where a car mysteriously flashes its lights. I have come from Athens airport by taxi whilst Waldo has rushed to the ferry and driven up to meet me. The number of times we have had last minute rushes to catch the ferry, drive to Athens to take visiting friends to catch their flight out of Athens; all because of bad weather, sudden and unexplained changes of flying schedule, even once only one air hostess was booked when the flight required two and thus the 'plane could not fly. Even now when we arrived a few weeks ago, whilst the flight took off on time from Athens, instead of taking our usual straight line flight to the island, we had to detour up towards Corinth and then over to Sparta, south to Githion and on to Kythera - because military aircraft from Kalamata were on exercise. I felt like shouting 'You can't afford the petrol - don't you know Greece is broke?' but who would have heard me?

To add to our frustration this week, we have been on the constant hunt for a man with a big machine to smooth our road. Whilst there are 9 houses and 18 farmers whose fields adjoin our mountain road it is an absolute disgrace, and impossible to come up unless using a 4-wheel drive vehicle. Eight years ago, the previous mayor did arrange for about half of the 8 miles to be cemented. Thankfully this cement road comes past our house and continues for about a mile further down the mountain, although in parts the cement is now breaking up, such was the quality of the mix. Below that is about half a mile of track which has remnants of 30-year old cement in places but is mainly just a rough track of potholes and stones creating craters guaranteed to break the suspension of any vehicle.

The current mayor has been promising for about 4 years now that the road will be finally cemented. Roads to almost every church on the island have been tarmacked, even though some churches are used just once a year. A beautiful road from the village where the mayor lives to the nearby beach has been tarmacked, despite the fact that it is rarely used as there is no taverna, snack bar or shade there. A few miles of road have been tarmacked when there is just one house on the road; apparently owned by some politician from Athens! We have been told that the tarmac plant on the island was not working, we have been told that there is no money for this work. We have been told that the work is scheduled for next year - which, like tomorrow, never comes! We have been told that there is a dispute with the people who live at the bottom of the road, by the corner which is the worst place of all. A petition with 70 signatures was presented to the mayor. He has received local Greek people, business people, Dutch people and us as we all, as individuals have complained about the road. All we get is empty promises about the works.

However, whenever we have been he has sent a man with a large grading machine to smooth out the worst bits of the road. This is fine for the summer, but once the winter rains come the water relandscapes the road again. This year the grading machine has not been sent at all. We have been told that the municipality no longer has a driver because of austerity measures. We have been told that one is coming within a week. We have been told that there is no money. We have been told that someone will be there in three days. we have been told that it is in the plan. We have been told that the engineer has been told to do it and it should have happened.

Last week there was great excitement between the inhabitants of the road - a big grader machine was parked in the village, not 200 metres from the bottom of the road. But that is where it has remained. Waldo has spent hours on the telephone, finding out who owns the grader. Andreas has been most helpful, but he cannot do anything to the road, even if we pay him. It is a municipal road and thus he cannot do anything unless he has instructions from the mayor. he will not get instructions from the mayor because he will not do any more work for the municipality until he gets paid what is owed him. Anyway the machine that usually comes is owned by the company of the man who is the deputy mayor. We have been to see him a number of times but he always declares that he cannot do anything, we have to see the mayor!

Last week the mayor promised it would be done by the end of the week. Since then we have not been able to get hold of him. Whever any of the girls on the switchboard see our telephone number coming up, the connection is disconnected. Waldo is not easily put off and so uses one or other of our mobile telephones. Even then, as soon as he starts speaking in English, and they recognise his voice, he is cut off. So we decided to go to see the deputy mayor and ask him why his machine is not doing our road. The answer was simple; the machine is not on Kythera, it is on a very small neighbouring island called Antikythera! Michaelis, a very handsome and intelligent looking man with kind eyes, not the person we usually see, but one of the three brothers owning the company, has promised that it will be back on Saturday and our road will be done. We wait ......

Sunday, 29 July 2012

Living in the heat

Living in the heat

As someone who used to have freckles and red hair, it is not difficult to understand that I am not fond of the heat. The hair might now be white and the freckles turned to 'age spots', but I still can't cope very well with the heat. I do wonder some times why we spend July and August in Kythera!

I guess that the reality is that after considering all the pros and cons it is still a more pleasant lifestyle and more rewarding environment. But is does take a lot of adjustment to be able to survive the heat without just living each day as a soaking 'blob'.

Windows in the bedrooms, hall and kitchen which all have net frames are left open 24/7. The two kitchen doors, the front door and a patio door of the lounge are open from the time we get up to dusk. All of this catches whatever breeze there might be. But as the 'house' is actually a bungalow with rooms on slightly different levels there is a natural airflow. The kitchen is on the lowest level, with the lounge, hallway and two guest bedrooms about a metre higher. Our bedroom and en suite is about another metre and a half higher and the hallway is double normal room height with a mezzanine floor leading to a corridor with the front door at the end of it, meaning that the difference in height between the kitchen as the lowest point and the front door as the highest is about 5.5 metres. This means there is a natural flow of hot air up through the house as the cooler air comes down. But even so we cannot assume that we spend less on electricity in the summer for there are times of the day when we need fans to assist and increase the flow of air, a fountain in the hall helps give the impression of coolness and in the evenings we do need air conditioning.

We try to get up around 8am and do whatever is necessary to do which involves going out shopping, working in the garden, or working inside before the heat of midday sets in. I often sleep in the afternoons but Waldo finds it most difficult to change his daily pattern. But he is often forces by the heat to just sit - and in those times he does an awful lot of work in his head, before he falls asleep in the chair. It is often a shock for him to wake up and find the work still waiting for him. I get our evening meal, the main meal of the day, by around 8pm. This is followed by the ritual of having to change the water reservoirs over so that the plants and flowers get their water overnight and then we work on our computers, watch a DVD or the TV, or read and go to bed early. If we go out then we usually meet friends around 9pm. Whether in or out we rarely get to bed before 1am. But the twice a day sleeping does give the impression of many more days than we actually have.

All food must be kept in the freezer or 'fridge. Butter needs only be on the table for 1 minute before it spreads perfectly. This phenomenon is very useful when baking and the recipe calls for 'softened butter'. Bread is kept in the freezer and 4 slices taken out in the morning are ready for the toaster before the kettle has boiled. Cakes, fruit and vegetables all need to be in the 'fridge and even then their time is limited. Perhaps that is the most time consuming aspect of living in the heat is that most fruit and vegetables must be bought fresh every day or every second day and there is no real guarantee what will be in good condition when we get to the shop. Thus meals cannot be planned ahead but rather are an inspiration of what is available on the day.

One of the great advantages of the heat is that we loose out taste for sweet things. It is impossible to buy chocolate and eat it in the heat. Ice cream too is a rare treat when we buy it and immediately drive to a shady spot to eat immediately. Rarely we go down 'to the front' after a meal and enjoy and ice cream at a beach side spot in the cool evening. I keep cooking to a minimum and so we live, for the most part, on raw fruit and vegetables. If cooking meat it might be some lean steak, chicken breast of a pork chop - anything that can be quickly grilled and which does not need a long time to prepare or supplement with fancy sauces. It may be accompanied by boiled potatoes, rice or pasta but always with lots of salad.

For me hot drinks are out. Waldo cannot give up his cup of hot tea in the mornings. I have my iced green tea and ginger as a morning refreshment. But the rest of the day we predominantly drink water. Apart from the cost, drinking litres of lemonade, cola, squash or other synthetic drinks over a day leave us feeling sticky sweet and bloated. Our cool water is the most refreshing and as we collect it ourselves it has none of the excessive minerals that the local potable water has. But we must keep at least two bottles in the 'fridge all of the time, for when really thirsty it is nothing to down a pint of water in almost one gulp.

Waldo has never been a 'beer' man and I prefer a nice chilled cider to lager. So we have always drunk wine and spirits - ouzo being the one of choice out here. For years now we have found that it not actually conducive to drink alcohol in the heat of the day; it seems to have twice the impact and takes days to clear out of our systems. For the past month I have been on new medication for my unstable diabetes and so, in order to give it a chance, I have given up alcohol completely. In fact it has not even seemed like a 'giving up' in the way I struggled to 'give up' cigarettes, then sugar in tea (both successfully) and more recently milk in tea (only partial success) and I have not had one moment of thinking to default. In this heat, Waldo too drinks far less alcoholic liquid. One 1L bottle of wine has lasted him a month and he has had about 3 ouzos, two of which he consumed when watching the opening of the Olympic games.

When Waldo is working in the garden he always wears trousers with socks and shoes - often with his trousers tucked into his socks, to stop anything crawling up his leg! He also keeps a long sleeved cotton shirt on and wears a hat to keep off the sun. I rarely go outside, but when I do, I too wear hat, long sleeves and trousers. I don't always wear socks except in the evening if we are going to a beach side taverna, for it saves getting bitten by midges and mosquitoes. I can't stand the cheap perfume smell of mosquito repellent - and it rarely works anyway. I have never liked sunbathing and now that we have so much more knowledge about skin cancer, I really can't understand the mentality of people who just strip off and expose their skin to the searing sun's rays for a few weeks every year. They must be storing up lots of problems and angst for their futures.

There is trend which I just don't understand and that is the minute the sun shines, even just a little, or the moment they land in a sunny place, men change their clothes immediately. Whether it be from smart working suits or casual jeans and T-shirt they loose all inhibitions, discard the socks, change the T-shirt for a vest, and step into these knee length shorts that come in an array of horrific colour combinations. I have not seen any man who looks anything less than highly comically wearing such attire. Sean Connery would not go there, even George Clooney is only seen wearing them when he is playing a comic role and yet the lanky, the bandy, the rotund and the squat of mankind quite happily parade our streets, gardens and beaches to the everlasting hilarity of the rest of the world. Thanks chaps for being brave enough and for brightening our days, but just look in the mirror before you go out next time!

Friday, 27 July 2012

Going from pillar to post

Going from pillar to post


It is only in the past year that postal deliveries have been made to our village, but the postman, like rubbish collectors, courier delivery services and indeed anyone with any sense, will not and cannot get up our road. Without a 4-wheel drive vehicle and good off road experience, it is impossible. For the privilege of not being able to have postal deliveries, we have to pay for a post office box; something which has always seemed some sort of perverse logic to me. The post is collected once a week in our village, but the woman in the post office in our nearby 'big village' does not know which day that is.

Letter post comes daily from Athens in the aeroplane, is taken to the main post office in the south of the island where it is sorted the next day and then following morning, around eleven it is brought up to the northern post office. So we get a daily postal delivery, unless of course the 'plane is full in which case they may leave some sacks of post until the following day or even the one after that! Of course the reverse is true when posting a letter and we find that some letters to the UK arrive within an amazing 4 days whereas others linger somewhere in the system for 10 or more days.

Parcel post comes over from Athens by ferry, and as with letter post is taken to be sorted and then delivered to our local 'big village' post office. This means that as the ferry comes twice a week there is no point going to the post office to collect items except late on Friday or Tuesday mornings. The post office closes at 14.00 for the day anyway. Conversely there is no point in posting a package other than Mondays or Tuesdays for they will catch the same ferries. Greece has a wonderfully egocentric view of charging for post. They are not complicated by the politics of Europe, old empire or Commonwealth. Everything has two prices; one for internal national post and one for anywhere else in the world.

Packages or letters sent 'special delivery' or 'express delivery' have a much more circuitous route. Firstly they are sent, by road, from Athens to a town in the lower eastern side of the Peloponnese. Here they are sorted and may linger for days. Eventually they are sent by road to the town opposite us on the mainland and sent over on the daily ferry, where they are then taken to the main post office, yes we know the story now. So the shortest possible time a special or express delivery can reach us is usually two days longer than ordinary mail!

Occasionally letters go astray and are not placed in our P.O. Box we might be given a letter or card that has lain for weeks in the drawer of the local fruit and vegetable shop or supermarket where all letters of unknown location are left. Even when we collect our post we have to sift it carefully to ensure that we have ours and ours alone. When we started with our post office box number we were just allocated one. These boxes were all set in a framework of boxes only open on the inside of the post office counter. The security of the system meant that only the post office employee could reach in to your box and give you your post. But, queueing is an unknown concept in Greece and so, to save time, everyone would just step behind the post office counter and collect their post, their neighbour's post and the post for anyone else they might take en route home. About four years ago this was all changed in favour of purposely designed metal boxes. Each person was given a box, with the same number as previously and a key to the master lock for one of the four outside doors. This lasted about two weeks before people were forgetting their keys and so at first a master key was left in the door. Now, so many people have inadvertently taken the key as their own that the outer doors are now left unlocked.

There was also a dispute because one very short lady could no longer reach her box as it had moved to the top level and so the numbers had to be changed. It was further complicated by the fact that the box numbers were clearly visible on the front of the drawer to each box. However as soon as the master door, containing all these drawer fronts, was opened nobody knew which was which. So the helpful post office staff decided to number the boxes on the inside. All was well for the first two columns but after that someone forgot that one box was unused as it was at the level of the master key. Then they redid it and made a further mistake. Rather than try to get to numbering correct they have now allocated us a number two away from our original number but 'it doesn't matter, still use you old number, I will remember'. Nobody seems to be concerned that I have spent money having business cards and such printed, with the allocated number on it. It doesn't matter because we are known anyway.

If the simple matter of post is a matter of trust and timing then courier deliveries are an amazing challenge. We have three on the island. One is mainly for large containers and everything is put into a large old building and all of the paperwork is piled in one uncertain tower, in no particular order. When you think something should have arrived you go to this place, look around the huge warehouse until you see what might be your parcel. Any attempt to check through the paperwork would be a matter of a few days work.

ACS, or Athens Courier Service is brilliant in that they mostly deliver within two days of the goods arriving on the island. The courier will telephone us and say that he will be at the bottom of our road in about 20 minutes and so Waldo meets him outside the Romantica Hotel and all is well. The other courier, irrespective of any special payment for 'next day' or 'express' delivery only delivers to our village once a week, and only then if he has a few packages. Well, 'delivery' is a relative term; what this actually means is leaving it by the front door of anyone actually living alongside the road. All else is almost thrown into the supermarket with a curt shout 'phone this person and tell them they have a package'!!!!

Waldo has long since found out that wherever we buy products from, however the efficiency of the organisation, if we have a tracking facility via the Internet then all tracking details will stop either once goods are dispatched to Athens or at least when they arrive in Athens. Today we spent most of the morning chasing a package. It was due to be on the island about 10 days ago. None of the couriers here would admit to it being here, even if we collected it. On the grounds that we tell all companies to use ACS and not the other one, we had expected no problems. However when Waldo telephoned the company concerned they were able to tell us that it had somehow spent 5 days in Koropi, a town near Athens airport where lots of courier depots are located. But it had been dispatched to Kythera and arrived here 5 days ago. He was told of the name of a company we had not heard of - apparently new. Waldo telephoned the company concerned as was told, in a very rude manner, that the package was not there and that they would telephone when it arrived. The telephone was slammed down before Waldo could say any more. Red mist descended and I knew that the hunt was on in earnest. Waldo telephoned again and this time was able to give the package reference number. He was told that the package was not there and that the other people were lying. Waldo telephoned Koropi and they confirmed that it has been sent 5 days ago. They agreed that they would telephone the courier concerned and inform them of this. Rather than risk having the telephone slammed down again we decided to actually get in the car and drive to the courier's office in a village in the centre of the island.

When we arrived at the village and asked around we were told that the courier's office was not actually there but in another village, in a new building. Waldo left me doing some shopping in the cool of the supermarket whilst he set off in the hunt for his package. Sure enough he found the courier in a brand new building, just further along the road from the totally inefficient one. In fact it was the totally inefficient one, just trading under a different name. The girl in the office was adamant that the package had just arrived and that is should have come on yesterday's 'plane, but because the 'plane was full it was left until today. Now we know that not to be true at all.

With the package safe in the car, my purchases in a cool bag in the boot of the car we called at Potamos post office on our way back. Who should we meet outside the building but the owner of the courier service. 'There is a package for you in my office. It's been there for days. Why haven't you collected it?'

If Kythera had a newspaper the headlines would be 'bearded Welshman seen doing a war dance on his hat in the middle of Kytheran village'!

Wednesday, 25 July 2012

Sleeping with Muhammad Ali

Sleeping with Muhammad Ali

It's another hot day on the island. Thankfully the day is bearable by a good breeze that wafts the perfume of our jasmine, lavender and geraniums around the place. I washed a pile of towels this morning, some big heavy bath towels - all were dry and very well aired within an hour of being hung out. That 'big heater' works wonders.

Our swimming pool - aka about to be a lily pond - is evaporating quite noticeably now. The plank that Waldo put for Freddy to sit on is now listing precariously with the bottom half in the water and the top half at an angle as the string holding it in place needs lengthening to allow it all to float of the surface of the water. This, combined with the early morning searing sun means that Freddy has changed his habit of just sitting on the plank and taking the occasional dive into the cooling waters.  Some time during the night he swims diagonally across the pool onto the first concrete step and crawls under a large stone put there by Waldo last year for the birds to stand on and reach the water. Freddy's conversation now has a strange echo sound as his voice hits the stone and bounces back. He stays there until mid-afternoon when the sun has moved around and then he has a leisurely swim back across the pool and onto the sloping plank. I don't know whether it is the effects of the sun but he seems to be getting greener by the day. He has slightly yellow rings around his eyes and under his mouth he is paler green. A handsome frog you might say!
Whilst Freddy was practising his swimming, me and my handsome frog were trying to sleep in the heat.  Both bedroom windows are kept wide open (we do of course have wire screens to stop unwanted guests), but still there is not enough air. We have a large fan which we have to keep gong all night. The sound of the fan obviously reaches into our subconscious. One night I was dreaming that I was in a hotel, near a motorway with the steady drum of heavy traffic. Waldo spent one night testing vacuum cleaners! We have both, separately had nights when sleeping on a ship with a cabin above the engines. But what happened last night cannot be put down to the noise of the fan.

In this heat Waldo sleeps without any sheet over him. I, on the other hand, have this irrational need to be covered from top to toe. Thus I have the sheet quite tightly wrapped over me with only my head, above the chin sticking out. My the time I have twisted and turned in the night I usually wake in the morning to find that I am like the centre of a cigar rolled in a damp few outer layers. Last night I was dreamlessly sleeping in this sweaty cocoon when suddenly, I was grabbed and punched in the face; well directly onto my right eye to be exact. I screamed and tried to unravel myself. Waldo was sitting up in bed, just repeated 'sorry, sorry, sorry' and holding his head in his hands. It turns out that he had been dreaming that for some reason, unexplained in the dream, a man was chasing him and he had returned to his parents' farm in the Vale of Glamorgan. Sure enough the man came into the kitchen and walked down a corridor. Knowing that there was nothing there and that the man would have to return, Waldo, with his mother behind him, hid behind the kitchen door waiting for him. He must have been getting quite worked up about this for the man had a gun and although strong, Waldo is not a big man. He would soon be overpowered and so he knew that he had one opportunity, with the element of surprise to overcome the man and disarm him. Like a cat waiting for the mouse to pass, Waldo waited and then, he pounced. He grabbed and threw the punch. We will never know what happened after that!
Meanwhile I now have a puffy eye which is actually aching, particularly when I turn my eye. But it could have been worse, I might have been shot!
At least, in reality this island is a safe place to live. I can walk anywhere in the dark and never feel afraid. The last 'crime' we had was two years ago when a tired young man, after a night out decided that the couldn't walk home, up the mountain from our seaside village. So he took one of the tourist hire cars. Having had his adrenalin rush, and being more sober when he reached home, he realised that to park outside his home would be somewhat of a giveaway and so he dumped it in a distant field. Before that, the previous crime involved people coming over from the mainland, trying to 'blow' a safe but failing to do so, stole the safe and tried to make a getaway by boat. They were caught. All that was some twelve years ago. But such is the deterrent against crime here that they were immediately imprisoned awaiting trial - the case came to court about 18 months ago when they were found guilty and sentenced.
Because of the lack of crime we rarely lock our car, often we forget to lock our front door. Our garden furniture and all manner of tools are put out when we arrive on the island or when we use them and not returned to their locked cupboards until we leave; there is no fear of rain nor theft.  We readily leave money for meals at tavernas on the table, knowing that only the waiter will pick it up when he is ready. Shops are left unattended, and we either leave the correct money on the counter or take the goods to a local coffee shop where we find the owner and pay. When shops are closed, goods are left outside for us to collect, secure in the knowledge that only the rightful owner will collect them. A few weeks ago I must have dropped a shopping bag when I got out of the car. About a week later when we went shopping and parked in our usual place, there on the wall in full sight was my shopping bag.

The consequences of this are that we have to be really careful to alter our habits when we return to the UK. Having to close windows at night, to lock everything up, to take time and consideration to protect our own belongings is quite restricting. Here on Kythera we feel much freer than we do in the UK and much of that freedom comes from knowing that social values are different. People respect each other, care for each other and are judged not by the work they do or the title they have, by the make of car they drive or the extent of their jewellery but whether or not they are a 'good person'. Sure enough education is valued and Kythera has some of the highest results and greatest percentage of the young population with postgraduate qualification in Greece. But people are thus respected for having worked hard and applied themselves rather than because they have the qualifications. Family is important and thus the pressure 'not to bring shame' on the family is high. In a small island community such as this, any crime committed would be immediately known and the family shamed. It's about 'good, old fashioned values' which make life and living so much easier. We all know the boundaries and keep to them. This means that we all have freedom without impeding others' freedom.
Nikos Kazantzakis understood the Greek notion of freedom, epitomised in his character Zorba; the lovable rogue who lives simply but has so much. Freedom and simplicity are rewarding bedfellows - no sudden punches in the night here! Modern materialism seems to equate freedom with the ability to spend, the freedom to choose what we want to spend our money on, how we want to live our lives and what are our rights as human beings. Why can't we realise that this a great myth developed and created by a market led economy which is dependent upon growth and more spending and more 'doing our own thing'.

Kazantzakis' epitaph reads Δεν ελπίζω τίποτα. Δε φοβούμαι τίποτα. Είμαι λεύτερος. -  "I hope for nothing. I fear nothing. I am free." The first statement is not about lack of ambition, but rather in translation means 'I want for nothing'. That want or desire is not borne out my having everything, it is about having ownership of very little and having the freedom to live, rather than spend a lot of time choosing to buy things and then even more time  and money spent looking after them and protecting them. Living simply means not having to fear the trauma of theft, not being tied to location because of possessions but by relationships with people.

Whilst Waldo and I feel privileged that we are living under exactly the premise of wanting for nothing, fearing nothing (except perhaps death and the consequential separation) and of being free. It was around 30 years ago that we decided that we would have a place to visit in Greece when we retired. It took us 20 years of looking for somewhere, 20 years of financial planning, risk taking and working towards having the ability to make it happen. And at least 10 years of getting our working lives into a framework that could withstand a dual living lifestyle. We've made it, we are here, we are free. What we have is not some designer created condominium that may be let out when we aren't using it. What we have here is a ramshackle, always needing work, home. In it are the photos and remnants of our past and those no longer with us nestling with the clutter or our present hobbies, work activity and leisure.

Our freedom is to be able to stop twice a day and sit together. We have our seats on what we call 'the top patio' in the shade and from where we can watch the ships coming and going along the Maleas Straits, see our island ferry ploughing its way through the waters  between Diakofti in the south-east of the island to Neapoli on the mainland. As we drink iced coffee or water we chat about the day and what we have been doing, we work out what to do and we gossip about friends and relatives. Sometimes we share an issue that is bothering us; usually just by talking enables us to deal with it. But often we just sit, holding hands and share the silence. We are as one; free.

Tuesday, 24 July 2012

Working with wool

Working with wool

Many years ago, when visiting a small fishing village towards the bottom of the Mani peninsular I watched with fascination at the fishermen mending their nets. This is hard work given the weight of the nets, the seaweed and rubbish that gets tangled in the knotted material and the constant smell of dead fish. Nevertheless I was fascinated and persuaded one of the fishermen to slow down the process so that I could follow what he was doing. After quite some time I plucked up the courage to ask if I could try. All the men laughed, for this was serious 'men's work'. Eventually one man stood up from his stool and handed me the net, perfectly positioned with a tear in it that cut both the cross and down threads over 4 holes. I took up the challenge. All the men put down their nets and just looked at me. The pressure was on. I started out quite confident that I knew what to do, but the weight of the net and keeping the tension took some doing. Getting red faced I fought the strong threads, but eventually, with not quite perfect tension, I mended the hole. The men were amazed but politely clapped and shouted 'bravo'. Little did they know that I was expert enough in the now little used skill of tatting. I even made a bed cover once, which took my quite some years I recall. I don't even know where it is now.

Because I was born before the days of TV in the house, let alone in almost every room. We did not have game stations and computers, mobile telephones; in fact on the farm we did not even have electricity until I was sixteen! So evening entertainment included talking to each other, playing cards and developing our skills in various crafts. My uncle listened to the radio, but that was in the morning for the farming news and in the evening for news. Apart from that and The Archer's omnibus on a Sunday, the radio was silent; saving batteries was a priority. My grandmother was a great card sharp who could have easily made a fortune around the gambling haunts of the old wild west! My aunt was always busy, washing the day's eggs and putting them in boxes ready for sale the next day; darning clothes, ironing, baking, salt curing hocks of bacon and generally doing the unending tasks of a farmer's wife. If I wasn't helping my aunt, I was loosing at cards to my grandmother who never believed in the psychology of letting a little one win every now and again - she taught me that to win you had to observe, learn, concentrate and persist. What a wonderfully sweet moment was the time I first beat her at cards! It was a sort of coming of age and poured upon me a new layer of personal confidence.

A maiden aunt of mine taught me to knit. She too was a hard task master. I spent years just knitting the insides of pockets which she fitted into what are now called 'boyfriend cardigans', for that seemed to be the only pattern she knew. She had ones in pink, blue, grey and something called 'oatmeal'. She knitted one for every female in the family in various pastel shades of green or yellow and a black one for my grandmother. The pockets were all mine. Once I had perfected the tension I was allowed a variation on the theme; I moved on to knitting pockets which fitted on the outside of the garment and so were actually seen! What proud moments I had pointing out to anyone who would listen - 'I made that' I would say as I reached out to any relatives' pockets. I did this quite often to the men who had theirs knitted in sombre colours of grey, brown, navy and green tweed. I had quickly learnt that by doing this, putting on what I considered to be a pretty smile and shaking my curly hair, the man in question would invariably reach into his pocket and bring out a sweet or a coin for me.

Sitting round the table, covered with a green chenille tablecloth, with my grandmother playing patience cards and my aunt with hands in some sort of food or housework, I would struggle with my knitting. Thinking back, my aunt must have only used double knitting for everything for I had a pair of what are now known as 4mm knitting needles which my father had patiently ground down to about half length for me. There were no such things as knitting kits for starters then, kids just did what the grown ups did and took up the challenge of small fingers and adult sized tools. But my perseverance paid off for I was about 10 years old when I knitted my first jumper for myself. It was yellow - a colour I never wear now - and I remember that I had made a mistake on the front neck shaping and so the top of each side had a few rows of reverse stocking stitch forming a triangle, but everyone said that it made it look different and it didn't matter at all that it didn't look exactly like the pattern. I was pleased that I had been creative and 'added' to the pattern. That must have stayed with me for I rarely knit completely from a pattern. I might use a pattern for the overall shape, but put my own blend of colours and / or stitches. Mostly I design my own knitwear and most recently I sort of make it up as I go.

For the past year I have been avidly knitting children's clothes: jumpers, cardigans and gillets. A year last March I watched the terrible pictures on TV of the Japanese tsunami and the devastation it caused. My heart went out to the people caught up in this terrible disaster. Some days later My heart froze as I saw pictures of some little children, orphans standing shivering in the snow. I immediately thought 'I have plenty of spare wool, I can make some sweaters and send to those poor children'. As a fast knitter with time, I had finished three sweaters in a week. Then it dawned on me; where do I send them, how do I get them there? It was then that I discovered that although aid was going into Japan, it was deemed by the West to be an economically viable country and so aid was restricted. This was further enhanced by the pride of the Japanese, not wanting to be seen needy. But those children did not know anything of politics; many of them had lost all they had ever known, except their class mates, they were traumatised, the were cold. At least I could do something about the latter, is nothing else.

Now, 16 months on, through the invaluable services of my relatives, friends, friends or friends, colleagues and indeed anyone who will listen, we have sent almost 2000 items of knitted children's clothes to Japan. I made contact of a friend from university and it was a total coincidence that Yuko had a cousin who is a priest in Kesen-numa City, Japan's main fishing port which was so devastated by the tsunami. In addition we have sent over basic clothes such as underwear and, at Christmas, toys for the children. Because of normal tidal surges most coastal places build schools and hospitals on high land. Thus in the tsunami many of the children, at school at the time, were saved but their parents working and living on the lower land were not. In one instance about 40 children who come over to the mainland to school were made orphans as the tsunami waves washed away the island and all they had ever known. With the facilities of modern technology we have been able to have photographs of the children and they, photographs of the knitters.

What I have found amazing about the project have been the unexpected pleasures. I have been really overcome with the generosity of people donating their time and skills to knit, but also those who have donated wool, money for postage and helped in all manner of ways; packing, motivating others to help, getting donations from wool shops, running raffles to raise money for postage. But a number of elderly people, who really do not have the money to spare for wool, have helped me out by using up my vast stash of yarns and that which has been donated. For some it has become an integral part of their social life; someone pops in to see them to give them wool and collect knitting and of course share a cup of tea and a chat. In one area a group who didn't really know each other before now meet on a weekly basis for a 'knit and natter' session; they share lifts, share cakes and sandwiches, exchange wool and patterns, help each other out with dropped stitches and have formed a great social network. As one grandknitter said to me 'It is so wonderful to be giving again, instead of receiving help'. Wow, what a win win situation has been created.

Here in Greece at the moment it is far too hot to contemplate working with wool, but I have even started to get a few knitters on the island to help me with this work. i have been amazed at how many young people here still knit. It has been a wonderful learning curve as I have studied and tried out new techniques of knitting. One old lady showed me the traditional Greek way of knitting whereby the needles are help slightly differently but the wool is either taken round the back of the knitter's neck or looped over a hook pinned to the front of her clothes just under the chin. This means that the wool is always held in tension and the knitting needle is rather flicked to catch the wool, rather than twisted round the needle. It gives a very even tension. But after years of knitting the British way, I cannot get my fingers around this method.

It does get to about 30'Cin the evening and I do then feel that I can pick up my needles. My cousin's daughter is pregnant and so I have promised to knit an heirloom christening shawl for the baby. My 2ply wool from the Shetland isles arrived last week. I've chosen three traditional stitch designs and will knit the shawl in three sections; a central square, a broad edging taken out from each side and a more lacy triangulated edge knitted at right angles to the inner edging.

When I've finish it and when I've learnt how to put photographs into these ramblings words and pictures will give a better view of life on a beautiful Greek island.

Sunday, 22 July 2012

Blood, sweat and tea

Blood, sweat and tea

To all those people in various parts of the world struggling to clear up after floods, mud slides and the ravages of bad weather, I must apologise. Thus morning I woke up and groaned at the prospect of another cloudless day. Another day when the temperature creeps up, engulfing me in a blanket of sweat and lethargy.

But Waldo and I have little time to reflect for before we are out of bed the door bell rings. It is Petros, our computer engineer and general systems engineer extraordinaire. he is an example of the young of the island, educated in the UK and holder of a PhD in robotics he is totally committed to the development of solar energy. Our friend Goran, the Swedish farmer has, for year, had to collect thousands of litres of water per day from a local spring to have enough water for household and garden needs - a time consuming occupation. A few weeks ago Goran and Lalla, and Petros drank champagne to celebrate their new invention.  Petros designed and built a solar powered system which now pumps water up some 800 metres and gives our Swedish friends all the water they need. It is the first such device in Greece and Petros now needs to exploit his invention, not only for his own commercial benefit, but as part of a contribution to environmental sustainability. After all, one thing Greece has plenty of is sun!

We have a different system for water, for we are not connected to the mains. We collect our water from the run-off from our seven roofs (our 'house' is a sprawling bungalow really) and our two drives (the back drive becomes a raging torrent in a heavy storm - it is actually not possible to walk in the water for it is running so powerfully). We try to keep one reservoir for household use, although both reservoirs have filters and the water is drinkable; in fact we have it tested regularly and it comes on a par with UK tap water and above bottled water in terms of bacteria content and unwanted minerals.

The person who owned the house before us was a Dutch engineer. According to Iannis the local plumber who was around when the house was built and thus knows everything about our water systems, this man had his own engineering company and it was he who invented the tripping mechanism for traffic lights. No wonder he could afford winter and summer location holiday homes as well as town and country homes in the Netherlands! Anyway, the consequences of his invention mean that he has used this same mechanism to set out our water irrigation system. We have three sectors which come on alternatively; the only difference being that they rotate in order rather than the traditional red, amber, green, green/amber, red. because our grounds are on the side of the mountain there is a limit to the height which the water can be lifted, thus we still have parts of the garden which have to be watered by hose pipes from taps located higher up the slope.

We do not have enough water to leave our sprinkler system on when we go away. Most of the time this doesn't matter as we tend to be away during rainy periods. But when we are away during the summer, our poor plants have to cope as best they can. This year our newly planted orange tree managed to give forth three tiny oranges before withering in the searing heat. Two of my three avocado trees, all grown from stones, have survived, one is looking good, one is struggling whilst the third is brown and shrivelled. Our reposition pineapple palm has also given up the ghost. It seems that the older, settled plants are well established and probably have roots going deep into the ground, whereas the newer ones need a lot of nurturing.

Waldo has suffered from the barbs and spikes of various plants as he plants, repositions and prunes. I do manage to persuade him to wear gloves for the dangerous oleander and when pruning our rubber tree plant, but apart from that he silently suffers the cuts and grazes bestowed upon him.  For the most part, I just give instructions; where to cut, where to reposition, where to plant. The only exceptions are the rose bushes and the bougainvilleas which seem to have become my responsibility. Anyone who has attempted to prune bougainvillea will know that is has vicious barbs which draw blood at any opportunity, but for the most part I usually come away with minimal damage and just enough blood on my skin to prove that I too have been working! The rose bushes are quite well located in a raised bed along the side of the guest bedroom patio; but on the far side is the top of a steep wall. Hence I have become well practised at reaching through the bush to cut off a bud or stem at the other side. The only real damage I suffered occurred two years ago when I was aiming for a low stem at the back of a bush. I was so intent on making sure that I missed all the thorns of other stems, and that no large spider would suddenly appear from the back of a leaf, that I had not noticed the snake coiled up in the shade of the bush! Annoyed at being disturbed it had probably hissed, but the noise would have been drowned out my the cicada chorus. My arm might have appeared to be a large albino snake, who knows, but the creature did what it had to do to protect itself and struck out. I had two neat puncture holes of the inside of my elbow. I wrenched my arm back, some thorns making gauges down my arm as I did so. I kept squeezing my arm to make more blood flow - if the snake was carrying any poison, I wanted it out of my body rather than in. Shouting, what I always shout in an emergency 'Waldo, come here, Waldo' I ran to the other side of the house where he was working. Little perturbs Waldo, he is excellent in a crisis, and like the finest bushman on Kythera he just lifted my arm to his mouth, sucked and spat a few times, then licked my wound and declared 'that'll be alright now - my saliva will act as an antiseptic'. Then in the next breath calmly asked 'Any chance of a cup of tea?'

I often laugh at the genetic wiring of the Brits; any crisis and the solution is a cup of tea - but only after dealing with the crisis! I laugh at this phenomenon in our society and I laugh when I realise how much we do it. And, on Kythera that means at least three tea breaks a day!

I have long since given up sugar in my tea, but trying to give up milk is still a real struggle. You see, after spending my formative years on a farm, I think my childless aunt and uncle could only bring me up as something within their experience and that was lambs and calves. So as a child I was fed copious amounts of milk, fresh, cooled, but straight from the cow.  No chocolate coloured builders tea for me, my tea has a standard English breakfast bag dunked in a mug two-thirds full of hot water for no more than 3 seconds and then the mug is topped up with milk. I do like this pale ecru coloured concoction. In order to try an give up milk I have experimented with other types of tea; Russian Caravan being my all time favourite. But, shocked at the price of some of the so called herb or fruit teas, and as a diabetic I have to be wary of the amount of sugar some of them contain, I started my own tea blending. Here are two recipes.

Ginger Green Tea - serves 4
Place two or three bags of green tea in a pot of jug that will withstand boiling water.
Take two or three thin slices of fresh root ginger and crush them with a garlic press (I keep one just for the ginger - not to contaminate tastes!) over the tea bags so that all the juice is collected. Cut off the bits of ginger than come through the holes of the garlic press and add to the pot with the remaining squeezed ginger.
Pour over hot water and stir to help the infusion.

If you want to drink it hot, then pour into mugs and serve with a cinnamon stick to stir. Each person can add sugar to taste if necessary.

If you want to drink it cold then use less hot water, After infusion, top up with cold water and leave in the 'fridge to cool. Pour over glasses stacked with ice cubes and garnish with a slice of lemon or a sprig of mint.

Pomegranate Tea
Cut two pomegranates in half horizontally.
Squeeze the juice out of them using a lemon squeezer.
Take the remaining pips and flesh out of the shells and wrap in fine muslin - you can squeeze this to get the last drops of juice out if you wish.

1. Serve the juice over lots of crushed ice and add a few raspberries to garnish, or
2. Warm the juice, add a little grape juice or apple juice if you want it sweeter, serve sprinkled with powdered ginger or cinnamon. A little macaroon biscuit goes well with this.

For the tea: lay the muslin out on a tray, spread the pips out on it and put another layer of muslin on top.
If in a hot place, put out in the sun - make sure that you anchor it all down so that the wind doesn't blow it all away!
If not on a hot place, just spread the pips, (no need for the muslin) a a baking tray and put in a very very low oven.
Leave in the heat until the pips are quite dry (if you leave any moisture in then the final 'tea' will go mouldy).
When dry mix your pomegranate pips with your favourite tea - I use Russian Caravan, Earl Grey or a light white tea.
Put into a sealed container and leave for a week for the flavours to meld.
Use as you would any loose tea.

I have experimented with other teas - some great, others not so good. I have the benefit of what Waldo calls 'the big heater in the sky' for drying, but a low heat over is just as good. Don't use a microwave oven for that cooks rather than dries and changes the flavour of things. Orange or lemon tea can be made easily by peeling the fruit, cutting off the pith and drying the chopped up pieces of rind. Add the any light tea. Experiment with herbs - I dry my own mint, basil, rosemary, dill, wild sage and geranium leaves and add those to teas. Also spices can add another dimension of taste to hot or cold teas; ginger, cinnamon, allspice and freshly ground nutmeg are just some to try.

Happy tea time - it can be done without the blood and sweat!



Saturday, 21 July 2012

Time after time

Time after time


It has been a long time since I have had chance to write. All sorts of life has intervened. But thankfully, here on Kythera, life goes on the same, well almost. The Greek economic crisis does reach out it's tentacles of fear as far as here. But in such a long reach stories become mangled as gossip and rumour abound.

I'm not sure whether it is the Greek people's stoic optimism, their naivete of the financial world or that they are simply in denial but there is little outward evidence of problems. Inward tourism to Greece is way down this summer and fewer Greek people will be taking holidays or at least cutting back on the distances travelled, cost of hotels and eating out. nevertheless we are greeted by taxi drivers' complaints that on a Wednesday, 3 flights a day and the Athens ferry now arriving in the evening are too much - to much hurry, hurry. But apart from that Kythera this summer is quiet - 'nice quiet, good roads not many peoples'. We hear that local hotels have refused to take any bookings for August from new incoming tour operators because they want to keep the rooms vacant for all of the Greeks that will come to visit. Hope springs eternal ......

Whoever spoke of 'the enigma wrapped in a smile' must have visited Greece at some time.  For despite all that is going on and the very real financial difficulties of the nation, the people are still smiling, still trying to do their best, still friendly, still giving away free drinks, free desserts and putting themselves out to help where possible.

Apart from the days when I have to 'attend' meetings via Skype, time has a completely different meaning here. I don't wear a watch. There are three types of 'alarm clock' here, each guaranteed to wake the heaviest of sleepers. The first is the bright sunlight as the sun rises before 6am. The second is the leg cracking of thousands of cicadas as they start trying to attract another; apparently triggered by the temperature rising beyond 28'C. If you are not already awake then the rising temperature to it's daily 44'C - 47'C will soon coat one in cooling sweat making it impossible to remain in comfortable sleep.

Breakfast and any shopping that might be needed are the only priorities for the morning. The rest of time is immaterial. I know the approximate time by the sighting of the little ferry that goes to the mainland every day or the sound of the island's aeroplane arriving or departing for Athens. I know the day of the week by the aircraft, ferries or cruise liners that go by. Monday is the Dutch tour operator from Kalamata; the first we hear is the bus driver totting the horn in the village to hurry up the departing tourists and then an hour or so later we hear their 'plane. Tuesday a particular cruise ship goes sedately towards Athens. Wednesday there are two local flights from Athens and a very large MSC container ships goes past on it's way to Athens or Istanbul. Thursday the 'big' ferry goes up past our house towards Githion, the cruise ship from Athens returns and then the Githion ferry returns. Friday the little local ferry has an extra trip. Saturday the large ferry comes down from Githion - we don't usually see it going up as it does so in the middle of the night.  Sunday is usually quiet.

All of this takes place at a distance and does not impinge upon our solitude one bit. As we all get older and our short term memory won't work as well as it once did, we are grateful for these markers of time. We have no rush. We don't have the desperate challenge of keeping a diary, remembering to look at it and to squeeze in appointment after appointment. We don't need to keep pages blanked out 'just in case' a meeting is that day or the next. We don't need to wait weeks, months, years even for hospital appointments. We don't need to plan to take time of work, then telephone the doctor's surgery first thing in the morning on the off chance that we might get an appointment that day.

In Greece life is very different. Friends make plans no more than 2 days in advance, so we are either meeting for coffee this morning or tomorrow, going out for a meal tonight or tomorrow evening. It is very simple. If we are ill we go to the local clinic/hospital, pay the grand sum of 2 Euros (now about £1.55, and the parking is free!) and see a doctor within half an hour. If we need to be admitted we are admitted there and then - not in 10 weeks or left waiting for a letter asking us to telephone to make an appointment. If it is something outside of the remit of our local facilities then we catch the next ferry or flight and are admitted within 2 days at the most to hospital in Sparta or Athens. If we need to see the dentist, we telephone and will be sitting in the dentist's chair that evening or the next morning. Similarly business meetings are called for today or tomorrow and very occasionally the day after that.

We were given a lovely little weather station that told us the temperature, humidity, cloud bank for now and the next 24 hours. Unfortunately Waldo put it in a sheltered spot on our patio where it reached 50'C and then blew up! As the heat become almost unbearable in the afternoons it is impossible to try to work. So we rest. Sometimes that means lying down reading a book, doing some sewing, light work at the computer or actually going to bed and going to sleep. I just love the few minutes of freshness I feel when getting up from an afternoon sleep around 8pm, having a shower and dressing to go out. Of course as soon as we step outside the airconditioning and into the 30'C heat the sticky, sweaty skin looses all it's freshness. But once it is dark, being outside, even in 30'C+ is pleasant as there is no searing sun and often a cool breeze.

And so we have our 24 / 7, but how different, how much more relaxing than the busy world of commerce and Western capitalism. What is amazing, is that I get as much, if not more work done in this atmosphere than I do in the pressurising life back in the UK. just thiunk about it.


Monday, 2 August 2010

Buying a House in Greece

I’ve just read two tales of woe from Greek people coping with the country’s desperate measures to try to get back into some form of economic stability. The first is from a small shopkeeper who has just been fined 200 Euros for not keeping proper records of what she is selling. She failed to give a receipt, and hence keep a record of her sales, to a man who purchased an ice-cream. She now declares that giving receipts for everything will be her downfall, after all it will mean that for the first time ever, ALL of her sales will be taken into consideration for tax purposes. The other is from a man who has a full-time government job for which he is paid. This job is so onerous that he spends between 3 – 5 days per week driving a taxi. He has just been fined for not declaring the cash earning with this moonlighting job; now ALL sources of income will have to be taken into consideration when assessing tax payment. He moans that it is outrageous and that the government are stealing money from him. To both those Europeans, I say welcome to the real world!

Tax avoidance is a national hobby here in Greece, and on this island is no exception. Those looking for property beware, for things are not the same as the rest of Europe. Here the estate agent claims 4.5% from both the buyer and the seller! Cheques are an unheard of means of financial transaction, credit cards are only accepted by two shops selling expensive household goods, and even then they are discouraged in favour of cash. As for bank transfers forget it - I think we are one of few people on the island who have direct debits for paying our electricity and telephone bills. Everyone else queues up in the relevant office, on the last day before fines are imposed, and pays by cash. We have long since stopped going out on those days; even if you think you are lucky with just three people in front of you, we have learnt that each one will be paying at least 10 other accounts for friends, relatives and neighbours. We have reduced our telephone bills by no less than two-thirds by transferring our communications to e-mail or technologies such as Skype. Now, we are considering solar power, at least for heating water. When we have travelled through Greece we have often marvelled at the environmentally friendly Greek attitude and the extent to which solar power is used on individual properties. But we now realise that the environment has scant consideration when compared with the politics of electricity bills. Instead of municipalities levying a separate community charge or local tax, it is simply added to one’s electricity bill. Non-payment of such charges mean getting cut off with electricity. There are two impenetrable equations which link electricity use to the amount of local tax each household pays, but essentially it means more electricity used, more tax paid. Providing one’s own electricity not only reduced the electricity bill, but local tax contribution as well!

When building a property or renovating an old ruin there are a few basic rules relating to the style of the property which must be in keeping with local tradition. Depending upon whether the location is within a limited number of metres from a beach, within a village boundary, just outside or in an isolated area there are rules relating to the ratio of the square metres of the land owned and the footprint of the property. All records of all costs must be kept, and until this expenditure is signed off for tax purposes, it is not possible to be connected for electricity. Thus the electricity organisation is a very powerful means of tax collection for the state. All of this was explained to us when we first met up with our friend on the island.

When we first met up with him on our return trip, Keith was just as I remembered him, except that instead of being dressed in a pale cotton suit and looking the archetypal British civil servant abroad, he was now in shorts and casual top, looking the archetypal British gentleman on holiday. He had walked from his new build, which was the other end of the village and so was glad of a drink. Fairly quickly we got down to the task in hand and were pleasantly surprised that Keith had a complete three days mapped out for us. Today he suggested that he took us around the north of the island, helping us to get our bearings, showing us properties that he knew were for sale and generally showing us the off the beaten track Kythera. If we liked any of the properties we could then follow through with an estate agent or the owners. Keith would then arrange for the estate agent to see us the next day and then the third day would be allocated to reviewing what we had seen and meeting another estate agent to see what he had to offer, he was a much smaller operator and estate agency was only one of his portfolio of entrepreneurial ventures, but most of his property was in our chosen area. Whilst Keith telephoned the estate agent, Waldo went down to see Liana, the daughter of the hotel owner.

On our last visit we had discussed the potential for buying as property with Liana. It turned out that she was a lawyer and said that she could act for us to ensure that any purchase we made would be legal and correct in Greece. This was wonderful, to have a professional person who also had knowledge of the island. Her own business was based in Athens, in fashionable Kanigos suburb which indicated a good business, and she spent most of the summer in Kythera helping her mother run the hotel. We had taken Liana to Karavas and shown her some of the houses that we liked. We promised that we would send her the photographs as soon as we got home so that she could find out who the owners were and whether or not they were interested in selling. We had done this within two weeks of returning home, enclosing a hand-drawn map locating each of the properties. We had then spent the interim year writing, e-mailing and faxing Liana. Her only response, just one week before we were leaving this time for our holidays was that she would arrange for us to visit houses. Waldo now wanted to know what arrangements she had made as he didn’t wasn’t to double book ourselves. We needn’t have worried, in typical Greek fashion the whole thing seemed a surprise to her, but she agreed that she would meet us the next day at six-thirty and tell us what she had arranged.

Knowing that we could now fill the rest of the day and up to six-thirty the next day, we fell in with Keith’s plans. Day three was far too far away to be concerned with. First we went to Keith’s building site and met his wife Androma. They showed us round the skeleton building calling on our imagination to see the lounge, main bedroom, bathrooms, kitchen and the variety of divisions that would make the house. We then set off in Keith’s ancient Lada 4 x 4. It had once been red, but time in the sun and years of hard work towing boats in and out of the water meant that was a rather fetching orange in the front mutating through rose to clearly identifiable rust at the rear. But it was great for the off-road terrain that constitutes most of the tracks of Kythera. The first house we saw was an old property being renovated by a friend of theirs. When we saw the huddle of stones nestled into under a ridge just outside Karavas we thought it looked hopeful. Clearly we both identified a white part of the building which was probably habitable, then walls and surrounds which were near completion and then rubble which was yet to be started in the restoration project. As we drew near Waldo and I looked at each other and smiled, we both thought this was a great beginning. Keith stopped and we all piled out. I was rather unsure as the track appeared to run between the house. Then, as Keith explained the layout we came to understand that what we had thought was one house was actually three semidetached houses with an animal barn being restored on the side of a fourth house. The house that was complete was locked up and so undaunted, Mickey fetched a set of metal cutters and cut open the lock. Between clenched teeth holding a cigarette I just heard the heavily accented words “It was a shitty lock anyway.”

The ‘house’ was just one storey and comprised two buildings together which seemed like curved bunkers. The iron gates that Mickey had just ‘unlocked’ led round the curve of the bunker, to the left was a small storage space and inside was a small dark room with a single bed on each side wall. There was one tiny window at the far end and off to the left was a small shower room with toilet. It was rather like visiting a property in a folk museum as we took it in turns to see inside, there being no room for four people at once. The next door entrance was similar room except that it was smaller and the two single beds had to be placed at right angles to each other, with the heads overlapping leaving a space of about twelve square feet to move in. Once outside I asked where the kitchen was and was shown to the outside wall of this second bedroom. Here was a long stone shelf with a basin in the corner; the food preparation area! A few ancient sheets of corrugated iron with vine branches resting on it served as the roof. There was also a large wooden table and a long bench. This was the kitchen, dining and living area and the rest was left to our imagination.

Concerned that I thought the Mickey Mouse House, as Waldo and I named it later, was too small, Mickey then showed us the property next door which he was working on. We could buy the two. Now was the time to do it so that he could organise the new rooms just as we wanted. There was potential. There was a good view. But there was a lot of work to still to do. The rooms were all rather small. Even buying the two properties we would still be semidetached and have a track running past the back of the property. There was little garden space, in fact as Waldo worked out, barely enough space to park a car. No, the Mickey Mouse House was out as far as we were concerned. But it was an interesting start.

After viewing the local church, the graveyard of which had the best view of all, we continued along more tracks towards an isolated farmhouse. As Androma pointed out the property in the distance we agreed that it was worth a look. One side was painted white and the other, longer part, remained stone. Once we were close up and personal, we realised that the property was in fact three houses and the farthest, smallest one was for sale. Again the backs of the property were the edge of the road track and it looked very small. We were in a hollow and a wonderful country location, but there was no view of the sea, maybe if one stood on tiptoe in a room at the top of the house. This was a non-starter.

Our next port-of-call, Keith told us, was to meet a friend of theirs who could perhaps tell us about the properties in Karavas that we had earmarked. We came off the track and joined the asphalt road just by the old mill at the edge of the village. We drove through the archway, a huge triumphal portico which looked totally out of place in such a humble village, but had been built in the memory of some previous citizen of Karavas who had since moved on to ‘Big Kythera’. We drove through the village and just at the other end, turned up to the right; we couldn’t believe it, into ‘our’ road. Haralambos, known as Harry, had a relatively new house which didn’t follow the traditional Kytheran style of small windows. It had been built by his father who had been a fairly influential man and had achieved a lot for the island such as getting the Flying Dolphin, the fast hydrofoil boat, to come weekly between Athens and Kythera. It was indicative of his personal power that within weeks of his death the service was withdrawn. The house was on two floors, but the large lounge at the front of the property had a huge balcony above it and around the front of it with the ceiling extending about 2 metres out to give a large outdoor living space. We were warmly greeted and ushered to this space. After some discussion Harry declared that he did not know who were the owners of the houses we had highlighted, but we should take a walk and ask some of the neighbours. It was very strange that nobody knew anything about the houses, neither neighbours living next door nor opposite some properties. One house was for sale though and we walked to see it. The house was located off the road and on a flat topped hillock below Harry’s house. It was complete and showed signs of having been lived in recently; it seemed a possibility until Harry suggested that he thought it was for sale for 95 million drachmas. Despite moving to the Euro, Greeks still think in drachmas, particularly for large purchases such as houses and cars, giving an unreal fixed rate at 350 drachmas to the pound.

We then walked back towards Harry’s house and on up the road to a dilapidated property which had not been on our list. The walls stood but part of the roof had collapsed and the house looked rather small, it was one floor in the front and two at the rear. But it was sandwiched between two other properties, one of which was derelict and there was no view for it seemed set in a hollow on the hill. After more searching and asking neighbours we came away feeling very despondent. Here we were with some influential local people, living in the road we preferred and having the advantage of being able to speak with the neighbours and yet nobody knew anything about the houses we had earmarked. What was the problem? What was their secret? Would we ever find out?

After Karavas, right opposite the house that was our number one choice, or at least the pile of stones that marked the spot, we turned off the asphalt onto a rutted track. Eventually we came to a small house that belonged to a German chap who had settled on the island some twenty years ago and eventually married his Australian girlfriend. Between them they ran a number of businesses including farming, estate agency, managing properties for rental, property management and maintenance for distant owners, making jams and all manner of preserves and pickles, providing firewood and others now lost in the distant memory. He seemed to have the control of the side of the mountain between Karavas and Aghia Pelagia. This was certainly an area that had the view we were looking for and the distance away from a village that ensured peace and quiet. In fact he told us he had a property just in front of his own house, and would we care to look. My flip-flops would not stand the rough terrain that we had to walk and so I was given a pair of his wife’s sturdy gardening shoes and we set off. I didn’t make it more than about ten feet and the thick marquise overtook me and my unsteady feet. Waldo and Keith soldiered on returning some half an hour later shaking their heads. This was just one pile of rubble too far. Three walls barely stood and even Waldo’s vivid imagination could not see a completed Shangri la at the end of it.

We were very despondent when we dined with Keith and Androma that evening. We tried not to show it as they had been so helpful and taken a lot of time and trouble to find us an array of different properties to view. We were rather daunted by the extent of dilapidation of the properties we were being shown and the high prices of those that were habitable. Maybe we had misjudged the whole thing and maybe we could not afford to follow our dream!

The next day dawned hot and hotter. I arose with the dawn and watched the sun rise over the sea until its searing heat pushed me inside around eight in the morning. Could I live in this heat? Was this a dream that would turn sour on us? Keith knocked on our door promptly and the estate agent turned up some half hour later: a rotund Greek-Australian wearing a large bush-hat. Waldo’s business experience came to the fore and he took an instant dislike to this man, but undeterred, he felt up to matching him on negotiations. We had decided to see what he had to offer, we didn’t have to buy anything or enter into any negotiations that we didn't want to. The first thing that he got us to do was to sign a piece of paper agreeing only to negotiate through him for any properties he showed us, and to pay him a fee, an agreed percentage of the buying price. This was one thing that we were not expecting. In the UK estate agents get their fees from the seller, not the purchaser. But apparently here the estate agent obtains fees from both parties.

He then described five properties that he had for sale and we agreed to visit all of them. The first property was a very standard square building, of typical Kytheran style. If could serve as one house and could easily be used as three flats in the summer, where rentals would be a good opportunity. Downstairs was a small one bed roomed apartment with a shower room and one other room which would serve as kitchen, dining and lounge area. The remainder of the ground floor comprised a garage, which didn’t have a door on it because the owner’s four-by-four was too long to fit into the garage. The property had been built by two brothers who had now run out of money and so wanted to get rid of it as quickly as possible. The shell of the building existed with windows and doors and the outside was painted white. Inside however, every wall needed rendering and painting, the plumbing was mostly in and there were a few electricity wires around the place, but exactly where they went to was not clear. The outside staircase led to the first floor apartment which comprised two bedrooms, a bathroom and toilet, a small kitchen and a small dining and lounge area with a small balcony. The top floor was similar except that it had one bedroom and a larger balcony. The rooms were rather small, as were the windows, but this was the Kytheran style. Windows could not exceed a certain size and could not be located less than one metre, apart. The property had spectacular views over the village and down to the sea, but the small windows meant that the view could not be enjoyed from indoors. We were rather amused that the property had been build on the side of a sloping road that led up the mountain behind Aghia Pelagia. When the contractor had bulldozed out the ground for the footings, he had bulldozed across the road, which was a rough, non-asphalted track. This meant that the track came down the mountain to the side of the house, and then dropped a sheer four feet, before continuing on to the village. The farmer whose land was at the top of the road now had to make the long detour around the other side of the mountain every time he needed to tend his land. No system seemed in place to ensure that the builder repaired and made good – at least that was what we were told, and secretly wondered whether that was part of the package of expenses that came with finishing the property. I thought it good as an investment potential, ideal for renting out. But as our future home – no.

The next property, we were told, had a swimming pool. Our immediate response was to declare that we were not interested. Swimming pools need maintenance and they also mean expensive properties, out of our league. The agent said we were going past the property anyway and so we might as well have a look at it. We drove back to the village and turned left along the front, just after the Hotel Romantica and before our hotel Waldo turned left, up a steep incline on a concrete road. The concrete only lasted for some 500 yards when the road became a rough and bumpy track. We twisted and turned on this uneven surface, winding our way up and around the mountain. Soon Aghia Pelagia was out of sight, then the Hotel Marou disappeared and all we could see was a river valley to our right, terraced with sparsely planted olive trees and slopes of shrub and wild flowers to our right. Eventually, after about two kilometres of bumping and jostling we turned a corner and caught sight of a flat roof extending out over the valley with what looked to be a series of patios. We pulled up to the double gates at the long driveway. The agent got out and unlocked the padlock linked through a huge chain: little did he realise that the chain was merely placed over the top of the two tallest spires at the end of each gate and so served no security purpose whatsoever! We walked down the driveway and were confronted with large roller doors to the front, this was the garage and workshop which would hold three cars, and the door to the house to the right. To the right of the front door was a massive coiled earthenware pot standing about three foot high.

Nothing prepared us for the entry into the house. Behind the front door was a long white corridor with a step down to a landing where we turned sharp right and I gasped. We continued walking along a wooden mezzanine corridor spaced with windows on the right and overlooking a huge double storey hall. One wall, hugging the mountainside was a crazy paving of unpolished marble of every hue imaginable from black, dark green through every shade of brown to terracotta, rose pink and sandstone. The rest was painted white. A small shrub and trailing plant grew in a small patch of earth at the bottom of this wall and apparently there was a fountain which could be used in the summer months to keep the place cool. Next to this was a large rose marble shelf with a collection of shells and artefacts uncovered during the excavations for the house including an almost complete earthenware jug. The floor through the house was of the crazy paved marble but with a high proportion of pearl and pale opal colours. At the end of the mezzanine there were stairs to the hall and just to the right of these were a set of double swing doors. We couldn’t believe it when we opened these to find a room some nine metres long and eight metres wide. The inside wall comprised a decorative fireplace and unpolished marble feature with niche’s and hidden lights. On the other side of the fireplace from the entrance doorway was a balcony with stairs leading to it; really something for a grand entrance, for it led from behind the chimney to the master bedroom. On each side were two large windows but the feature of the room was the half-octagonal shape at the far end which comprised five pillars with double patio doors between each pair. These led out onto a veranda with patios at each end, leading down to a further patio and then another patio area with a swimming pool. The view was spectacular. In front of the house was a long valley, with no houses on it, just trees and a few dilapidated old huts used once by shepherds or for two weeks of the year when gathering the olives. The valley ran down to the Karavas – Aghia Pelagia road where there, in the distance, was one small house. On the other side of the road was a small hillock with olive trees on the slopes, to the left was a steep hump with a tiny church perched on the top. Beyond that was the silver blue Straits of Elafonisos and then, rising from the mist the Krithina Mountains at the base of Cape Maleas in the Peloponnese. On the extreme left of our vision was the small island of Elafonisos with its small hill silhouetted against the backdrop of layered mountains higher up the peninsular. Never, ever, in my wildest dreams did a property such as this enter the arena of our thoughts, and, although we didn’t know the asking price, it was going to be way out of our budget. I suppressed any emotion and said in a flat, English way, ‘yes, very nice’. The rest of the house comprised a large kitchen, a living room and three double bedrooms, each with an en suite. There was also a huge workshop, pump house and boathouse which was accessed from the long and winding rear driveway.

Keith and I stood on the patio in front of the lounge and enjoyed the view and identifying the various trees and shrubs around the pool area: the white delicately perfumed mock orange flowers, pink and deep red flowering oleander, myrtle with it’s white flowers emitting the smell that is so much of Greece, white flowering jasmine with its heady scent, delicate red flowers of a pomegranate bush, geraniums with pink, red and orange flowers, the orange and red flames of the trumpet flower and lavender, a heady mix indeed which had palm trees as their backdrop. To our left were pear trees, and the olives. Even though it had been windy down on the beach, there was no wind here; such was the protection of the mountain. Whilst Keith and I talked in general of anything but the house, Waldo seemed to be exploring every nook and cranny whilst the estate agent studied him closely, greedily thinking of the possibility of a sale. I thought it was all rather excessive. We couldn’t afford it, so why put on the sham? It was so way out of the realms of possibility that we could ever own such a place, I did not even tuck it away in my ‘can-but-dream’ section of my brain.

We drove back down the bumpy road and turned left onto the road to Karavas – so much for the ‘we are passing the house anyway’ line! Soon, on a ridge to our left we saw what looked to be an old Kytheran farmhouse. It equated to a small manor house in the UK. This was one place we had spied as a possibility, but thought it might be on the limits of our budget. We need not have worried for when we reached the farmhouse it was clear that it was much smaller than it seemed, although it was long, it was only one room wide, what you saw was what you got! It was a most bizarre design. The farmer who had built it had thought it could be used for renting out rooms, but somehow this had never happened. We were not surprised for the downstairs of the property, from left to right comprised a lean-to shower room and toilet; a musty storage room full of decaying bedding and furniture; a well for the water supply of the house; a low, dark kitchen with a dining area next to an old fireplace; a chicken shed complete with chickens; all of which could only be entered from the outside, there being no inner connecting doors. Upstairs comprised a long narrow balcony spreading left and right of the outside staircase with three ‘boxes’ off: these could not be described as rooms for they were small, each with a one foot square window. There were no light fittings, no living area, no scope for expansion and even the view was not particularly good. The asking price was over a quarter of a million pounds and it needed at least a further £60 – 75k spending on it.

The next property was just on the outskirts of Karavas, in fact it was up the road that we had earmarked as our second choice. Waldo and I looked at each other as we turned up the familiar road, here was hope. We stopped outside one house that had not been on our list because it was clearly occupied, but it looked good and the view was what we wanted. But our hearts slowed to their normal pace when we realised we had just stopped to collect the key to the property which was for sale. A smiling old Greek gentleman came out and said he would walk to the property. His name, he told us was Lucky, although he wasn’t lucky he explained with a grin. His English was good and his accent, like so many Kytherans was Australian. The German occupation of the island followed by the ravages of the Greek Civil War cause many island people to flee to the mainland and further afield. America had closed its doors and Canada seemed too cold for these people used to the sun and so they headed for Australia. Many have since returned in their retirement, some run tourist businesses in the Australian summer and similar businesses in the Kytheran summer, some young people return to their parent’s native land working as doctors, nurses and other professionals as they gain an understanding of their culture and use their bilingual skills. Lucky took us to a house which turned out to be the one we had viewed from the outside with Harry. It had one main big room which served as the kitchen, dining and living area. In a higgledy piggledy maze behind this were three or four bedrooms, depending upon whether a bed in a corridor constitutes a bedroom. Somewhere off this little twisting corridor was a door which led to a sun room which ran the whole side of the house, it was big and clearly would be ideal as a living area, but it was difficult to get to and it was on the north side of the house and thus perpetually in the shade. There were guest quarters with the property and I followed Lucky across the well kept garden to a tiny, traditional Kytheran farmhouse style building. It comprised two rooms and, we were getting used to this now, each entered only from the outside. I ducked my head and turned sideways to get in through the door and couldn’t believe my eyes. The guest bedroom comprised two concrete plinths down each wall with a corridor between them leading to an even smaller doorway. I opened this and was confronted with, what we would call a shower room in that one could just squeeze sideways into the room, and then by standing, leaning backwards over the toilet and then bending forwards over the tiny sink one could perhaps get some water from the spray fitted on the opposite wall. The other room was bare except for two single beds placed at right angles to each other leaving a space some three foot by four foot. There was no room for storage, no wardrobe, no room even for a suitcase. Out of curiosity we asked the price of this house and were surprised to learn that it was just short of a third of a million pounds!

A town house in Karavas built in a Venetian style was our next stop. It was once a beautiful house but had long since gone into decay. The tiled floors were still there and remnants of the high double doors hung like drunken sailors on one hinge. It was a three storey house but had no garden, a tiny patio at the top afforded a small view over the village roof tops. There was no room to park a car and besides the only entrance was along a walking street of steps. Any goods brought to the house would need strong men and / or a donkey; given that just three donkeys remained on the island that seemed a difficult task. The house would be wonderful with tasteful restoration, but this would need about two years of constant project management and cost more than our budget and still not give us what we were looking for.

Not wishing to outstay our welcome, we dined alone that night, arranging to meet with Keith and Androma the following evening, after we had visited properties with Liana. Wild goat, hot beetroot, potatoes cooked in cream and cheese went down a treat that evening, washed down with a bottle of Macedonian wine. We needed something to cheer ourselves up. It certainly did the trick, although the following morning we realised that the fine wine we had drunk the night before was not quite so. Or maybe it was the quantity of ouzo that preceded it and the brandy on the balcony afterwards!

Liana, as befits a true Greek, was late. But eventually we got going, following a man on a motor scooter who was supposedly from the post office, but he knew of a house for sale on the other side of the island. We took the now familiar road to Karavas, through the village, through the arch, past ‘our’ pile of stones and back along the road towards Potamos. We soon turned off the asphalt and onto a cement road which climbed gently towards a high plateau. We took the left hand fork towards Petrouni and soon reached the huddle of houses called a village. Just before a corner the man on the scooter bounced off the road and up an embankment. Without hesitation Waldo followed and the shocked man, who now had stopped waved his hands wildly indicating that we had arrived. The house was reached down a long garden path. The semi-detached house was along the traditional Kytheran country style that we were now becoming used to, two bedrooms and a kitchen, all reached from the outside only. The view from the treacherously narrow path to the kitchen was quite spectacular, as we were actually walking along the edge of a steep cliff. Looking through the tops of trees we could see the mountains beyond. We turned up our noses at the thought of gardening for ‘our’ garden, it was pointed out, was actually at the bottom of the cliff, ‘Look to there, down, down. Nice place. Plenty vegetables.’ The reason the path was so close to the edge was that it needed to skirt a huge extension, a massive flat roofed box which seemed to serve no purpose unless a previous owner had thoughts of opening a tavern. But, we were told, it could be a lovely sitting room. Sure it had the space, but character needed much imagination.

I told Liana that I thought it was rather small, that we needed more than two bedrooms for when we had guests to stay. Immediately she guided me back along the treacherous path, down the long garden path, over the deep verge, past of car, over the road, across a small field and triumphantly showed me what looked like two pig sties, only one with the roof still in tact, ‘Here are the guest quarters,’ she declared without a trace of irony. I could just see my sister, after a cosy evening together sprinting in her customary 4” heels in the darkness to her ‘guest quarters’!

We returned to Karavas and met a man who showed us the beautiful, but dilapidated Venetian town house. We seemed to on some sort of charade for he knew that we had already viewed it, he was from the village and nothing happened without everybody knowing. He then said that his brother was coming and we could see another house. This time it was a town house, a few yards away from the ruin, but this house had been beautifully and lovingly restored. It belonged to a couple who had now split up and so the house was being sold, with most of the contents. It was rather good, but again it had one large room downstairs which served as kitchen, dining and living areas. One bedroom had a tiny pocket handkerchief of a corner balcony, the other bedroom was almost within touching distance of the church bells and the third bedroom was actually part of a corridor or upstairs landing. There was no garden. There was nowhere to park a vehicle but that wouldn't be necessary because the house was only reached via a flight of steps whichever way one approached it.

We walked back to the car park and the man, who now purported to be an estate agent, pulled out the photographs that we had given Liana a year ago. He started pointing to the ridge and discussing particular houses. For a split second our hopes were raised, but then I caught part of the Greek conversation and it was clear that after a year, he had only been given the photographs two days previously. He had asked around but nobody knew anything about those houses; they certainly remain a mystery.

That evening with Keith and Androma we shared our thoughts. Nothing that we had seen fitted our needs. The only property which fired our enthusiasm was beyond our wildest expectations was the one on the mountain outside Aghia Pelagia. The one with the swimming pool. But it was something of a Hollywood style sea view dwelling and well beyond our means. Even within the realms of normal dealing, we couldn’t get the place down to a price we could afford. The price had already been reduced by some fifty thousand Euros and we would need it to be reduced by a further one hundred and thirty thousand to come within our budget. No it was impossible that people would come down almost two hundred thousand Euros, we agreed. Then Keith suggested that we should have a word with the estate agent. We would never know what was really impossible if we didn’t ask and know for sure.

Thus it was that two days later, on Friday, Keith and Androma, Waldo and I were back at the house with the estate agent. Waldo looked into every nook and cranny, checking the structure, checking the drainage, the electricity and the plumbing. Then he returned to the kitchen and sat down with the estate agent. In true Greek fashion Keith sat down too. I stayed in the lounge and Androma eventually joined me. Waldo went through a great preamble, saying that we were interested in the property, but that it was way out if our price bracket, but would the owners consider a deal? The estate agent suggested that he made an offer and he would then relay it to the owners. Waldo then went into a long discourse about the poor access to the property, the need for repainting, no guarantee that the electrics, the boiler and all manner of things were working, that the swimming pool may be leaking and, in true negotiating fashion, highlighted all of the negative points about the house. He was so convincing that I started to wonder whether we really wanted to buy such a wreck. The estate agent reconfirmed that the asking price had already been reduced by fifty thousand Euros. Waldo immediately negated this fact by saying that as far as we were concerned the asking price was what it was now, anything higher was prior to us viewing the property and thus irrelevant. Yes, we were interested and there was no way we could afford such a price, he then made an incredible offer just over half the asking price. Even I was shocked. This was so far removed from the asking price that it was bound to be rejected. What was the point of even offering such a low price?
Not for the first time in our life together, I underestimated Waldo, for he knew full well that the price would be rejected. But in the world of horse-trading and that band of men found the world over who live by their wits and ability to ‘do a good deal’, Waldo knew that it immediately set the boundaries for the negotiations; the selling price would now be somewhere between his offer and the current asking price. However silly his offer appeared, it set the boundaries and thus lowered the potential final agreement.

The estate agent was indignant. He wasn’t even going to put such an offer to the owners. I thought that Waldo would then up his offer to the next round figure, but for the second time he surprised me and immediately went some twenty thousand Euros. I was starting to get worried for this was close to our limit and he didn’t have much room to manoeuvre. Waldo then explained to the estate agent that he knew the property had been on the market for about a year and now it was the end of the season, the owners probably hadn’t expected an offer now and so he suggested that they take the weekend to consider this serious offer. It was a cash offer, we needed no mortgage and the deal could be done by the end of the week.

We were somewhat surprised to have a telephone call from the estate agent the following morning saying that he had been in touch with the owners and that they would come down to a further twenty thousand Euros and that was as low as they would go. Whether he expected Waldo to increase his offer as a consequence of that new asking price, I do not know. If he did, he didn’t know Waldo’s nerves of steel when his own interests are at heart. Waldo did not flinch, neither did he revise his offer, he merely told the estate agent that he was surprised that he had called before Monday, hadn’t he said that the owners would need the weekend to think over his offer. There would be no further offer coming this summer and he reiterated the fact that we needed no mortgage, no time to raise the money; we could sign the documents on Monday and instruct our solicitor.

We then settled down to enjoy the rest of Saturday and make sure we were at the airport on Sunday to meet our good friends, Meg and John who were coming out to join us. It was great to see them and so difficult not to rush them up to the house and spend all our waking time talking about it. It was also so difficult to leave the hotel, as I felt that to do so might mean missing the all important telephone call from the estate agent. Waldo the brave, assured me that we would not miss anything, there were no other buyers and we could always call the following day.
The estate agent starting playing a more canny game, but a more dangerous one as far as Waldo was concerned. He did not call on the Monday. By Tuesday my nerves were in shreds, but Waldo refused to call until the evening, to be told that a further twenty thousand Euros reduction was the absolute lowest figure the owners were prepared to go and that there was now interest in the property from the Internet. Waldo was furious, he wasn’t going to be blackmailed into a higher price by threats of other potential buyers on the scene. He realised that the owners had made considerable reductions, which indicated that they were desperate to get rid of the property. We had already done more homework and found that they also had a property in Switzerland as a winter holiday retreat and it appeared that they were quite well off. The husband had died two years previously, and had been ill for two years prior to that. The house was too much for the elderly widow to manage and the children, although mature adults, did not have any particular interest in the property. Waldo played for time and told the estate agent that he was up to his budget and needed to talk it through with me, but again he reminded the estate agent that it would be an immediate cash sale and suggested that the vendors rethink their final asking price.


I had scoured the Internet before we came away and was convinced that the property was not on the market via the Internet. I assured Waldo that, unless the property had been put on the Internet within the past ten days it was not there. I had not been able to find anything on Kythera for sale via the Internet, nor even find a contact for an estate agent on the island.
The following morning when we were in Potamos enjoying a wander around the shops and then settling in the square for ouzo’s or fresh orange juice, Waldo decided to ‘phone the agent for the last time. All previous telephone conversation had been about the vendors reducing their asking price and whenever it was expected that Waldo would increase his offer this had not been forthcoming. Waldo decided to left-foot the man by immediately opening the conversation by increasing our offer just 10 thousand Euros. The shocked estate agent replied by saying that the vendors had agreed to come down a further twenty thousand as a full and final offer. Waldo immediately agreed that at last they were now within talking distance of an agreement. He was still getting the same story from the estate agent about the potential Internet purchasers, but Waldo called his bluff and challenged him to prove the story. Then Waldo played his master card, he increased our offer a mere 2 thousand Euros, stating that we could come down to his office the following day and pay a deposit; money which the agent could use to go to Australia for the winter, he could go and buy his ticket and be away by the end of the week. Personal greed overcame the man and he capitulated and Waldo had a verbal agreement that we would buy the house at that price.

But Waldo did not stop there, he did not verbally shake hands and come off the line. Waldo then persisted ‘That price includes all the contents of course?’ The agent was thrown. But in essence he agreed. We ordered another round of ouzos and celebrated our purchase.

The following day John, Meg, Liana our solicitor, Waldo and I squeezed into the car and travelled to Chora, Kythera town to meet with the agent. Liana checked the nominated ownership with the land registry, Waldo and I opened a bank account and we signed the papers. The agent was very annoyed that we were only prepared to give a 200€ deposit, but we explained that we were on holiday and were unable to give any more; the rest would be made over in a bank transaction when we arrived home.

He kept muttering about the fact that it was insufficient to hold the property, the Internet buyers were still interested and he could collect money from them. Waldo simply ignored the man’s ramblings. When we looked at the plans for the property we were amazed to find that the house included some 10 acres of land, in olive terraces down the valley and a further 2 acres of land across the agricultural track and further up the mountain. It was clear that the agent didn’t even realise there was land above the road which belonged to the house. Neither Waldo nor I said anything.

I was brought to some sense of reality when I heard the estate agent say that two large earthenware pithoi, which stood about 6 foot high in the hallway were not included, nor was a tall, narrow chest of drawers which was almost the same height. These were the best pieces in the house and had apparently been promised to the woman who had cleaned the house and prepared it for the time when the owners visited. I was somewhat dismayed. Then he started talking about ladders and certain tools which had apparently been promised to the gardener, the husband of the cleaner, and Waldo felt the same. Eventually we agreed that we would go to the house the following day and make an inventory of what was to be included; this would be signed by both parties. The agent said that he would sign on behalf of the owners and this convinced us that he was attempting to acquire some of the good things he had seen in the house.

The following day we bounced our way up the narrow track. John and Meg were thrilled with the house; they had only previously seen it from the outside. We wandered around the patios and garden. John, ever the security expert tried the patio doors until, to his amazement, one opened. We immediately went in and started making notes and taking photographs. The agent was late, and kept insisting he had another appointment to go to. I couldn’t help thinking this was a ploy to rush us into taking a bare glance around the house and so miss much of the detail. He was furious to see that we were already well into our lists and that Waldo and John had made excellent photographic records of each room. We matched his fury by declaring that he was not looking after the property for the vendors, for it had been left open. We insisted that he made a list of all the people who had keys to the property and that on hand-over we had to have all sets of keys.

It was just six weeks later that Waldo flew back to the island to take possession of the house. He took with him a sign ‘Kalithea Villa’ (Goodview villa) to mark the new beginning. I joined him a week or so later. We changed the electricity, telephone to our names and thus started changing the house from a family’s summer holiday place to a sanctuary for an old couple and their visitors.